Sep
30
Tips For Choosing A Fish Tank
Filed Under Pets | Leave a Comment
Lee Dobbins asked:
Picking the right tropical fish tank will make the care of your tank easier and much more fun for both you and the fish, so you will want to choose an aquarium that not only looks sharp, but is also functional and appropriate for your needs. Ultimately the decision is yours to make - below are a few thoughts that should help to insure you pick an aquarium that is perfect for you!
Shape
The most prevalent shapes for fish tanks are hexagon and rectangular, but you can also buy rounded bubble tanks, coffee table tanks and even thin fish tanks that fit right in your wall! When deciding on the size of your tank, you need to consider the location where you will setup the tropical fish tank to be certain the tank will fit and won’t stick out into any traffic areas.
Rectangular fish tanks are best for your water quality and fish health. Because rectangular tanks are long, the surface area (the area that meets the air) is bigger in ratio than aquarium tanks of other shapes and sizes and allows for best exchange of gases and, hence a healthier aquarium tank. A hexagon shaped fish tank, looks neat, but there is not as much surface area. You can still have a successful hexagon shaped tank, but you will most likely need to spend more time maintaining the water and won’t be able to house as many tropical fish as you can when using a rectangular tank which holds as much water.
Location
If just are going to have 1 fish as a conversation piece on a small shelf or bathroom vanity a cool decorative tropical aquarium could be just the thing. When picking a location for the fish tank be sure that you take the weight of the tank into consideration (a filled aquarium can weigh 12 pounds per gallon so a filled 20 gallon Aquarium Setup can weigh over 200 pounds) and locate it a spot that can support the weight including the right stand. When buying your aquarium tank, it is necessary to think about its placement in your house. If you are looking to add appeal to an empty corner, a hexagon shaped aquarium tank might be wonderful, but a long rectangular aquarium setup could make an interesting statement along a wall.
Size
If you are just a beginner you should consider a 20 to 30 gallon aquarium setup. A small 5 gallon aquarium tank is fine if you do not have a lot of space but you will have to be sure you don’t overload the aquarium with fish or the quality of your water will suffer which can make your fish unhealthy. Don’t be tempted by those little fish tanks or bowls that have 1 or 2 fish with no filtration, Believe me, the fish will not live for a long time in that tank and you will spend a lot of time monitoring the water quality and performing water changes. The rule of thumb for size when buying an aquarium is that the bigger the aquarium tank, the less maintenance you’ll need to carry out and the more fish you can house.
Typically you can house 1 inch of fish for every gallon of water in the tank - along with adequate aeration and filtration, that is. If you buy a 20 gallon aquarium setup, you can have 20 inches of tropical fish, or about 15 fish with the tinier 5 gallon aquariums you will only be able to keep 2 or 3 fish.
Picking the right tank is a question of personal preference, you need to weigh the options and pick what fits your needs. Doing your homework before you go to the store will help to save you both time and money in the long run.
BOYD
Picking the right tropical fish tank will make the care of your tank easier and much more fun for both you and the fish, so you will want to choose an aquarium that not only looks sharp, but is also functional and appropriate for your needs. Ultimately the decision is yours to make - below are a few thoughts that should help to insure you pick an aquarium that is perfect for you!
Shape
The most prevalent shapes for fish tanks are hexagon and rectangular, but you can also buy rounded bubble tanks, coffee table tanks and even thin fish tanks that fit right in your wall! When deciding on the size of your tank, you need to consider the location where you will setup the tropical fish tank to be certain the tank will fit and won’t stick out into any traffic areas.
Rectangular fish tanks are best for your water quality and fish health. Because rectangular tanks are long, the surface area (the area that meets the air) is bigger in ratio than aquarium tanks of other shapes and sizes and allows for best exchange of gases and, hence a healthier aquarium tank. A hexagon shaped fish tank, looks neat, but there is not as much surface area. You can still have a successful hexagon shaped tank, but you will most likely need to spend more time maintaining the water and won’t be able to house as many tropical fish as you can when using a rectangular tank which holds as much water.
Location
If just are going to have 1 fish as a conversation piece on a small shelf or bathroom vanity a cool decorative tropical aquarium could be just the thing. When picking a location for the fish tank be sure that you take the weight of the tank into consideration (a filled aquarium can weigh 12 pounds per gallon so a filled 20 gallon Aquarium Setup can weigh over 200 pounds) and locate it a spot that can support the weight including the right stand. When buying your aquarium tank, it is necessary to think about its placement in your house. If you are looking to add appeal to an empty corner, a hexagon shaped aquarium tank might be wonderful, but a long rectangular aquarium setup could make an interesting statement along a wall.
Size
If you are just a beginner you should consider a 20 to 30 gallon aquarium setup. A small 5 gallon aquarium tank is fine if you do not have a lot of space but you will have to be sure you don’t overload the aquarium with fish or the quality of your water will suffer which can make your fish unhealthy. Don’t be tempted by those little fish tanks or bowls that have 1 or 2 fish with no filtration, Believe me, the fish will not live for a long time in that tank and you will spend a lot of time monitoring the water quality and performing water changes. The rule of thumb for size when buying an aquarium is that the bigger the aquarium tank, the less maintenance you’ll need to carry out and the more fish you can house.
Typically you can house 1 inch of fish for every gallon of water in the tank - along with adequate aeration and filtration, that is. If you buy a 20 gallon aquarium setup, you can have 20 inches of tropical fish, or about 15 fish with the tinier 5 gallon aquariums you will only be able to keep 2 or 3 fish.
Picking the right tank is a question of personal preference, you need to weigh the options and pick what fits your needs. Doing your homework before you go to the store will help to save you both time and money in the long run.
BOYD
Sep
30
Vet BJ asked:
i need a list of good comunity tropical fish.
so far i have 6 platies and 2 albino catfish.
its a 4 foot tank ph 7.o
MARVIN
i need a list of good comunity tropical fish.
so far i have 6 platies and 2 albino catfish.
its a 4 foot tank ph 7.o
MARVIN
Sep
29
When someone says Tropical Fish what kind of fish are they talking about? and why?
Filed Under Fish | 10 Comments
KrAzY asked:
I would say saltwater fish because tropical to me would be the ocean, but why do people describe fresh water fish as tropical???
Saltwater tanks also need the temp of 75-80 degrees so would a saltwater tank also be tropical???
ORVILLE
I would say saltwater fish because tropical to me would be the ocean, but why do people describe fresh water fish as tropical???
Saltwater tanks also need the temp of 75-80 degrees so would a saltwater tank also be tropical???
ORVILLE
Sep
29
Fishless Cycling For Your Tropical Aquarium
Filed Under Pets | Leave a Comment
Janet Bugby asked:
Once you have set up your tropical aquarium the next step is to ‘cycle’ it. This process produces beneficial bacteria that will process the waste ammonia from your fish and convert it into nitrites and then into relatively harmless nitrates. After adding fish to an uncycled tank the toxic ammonia and nitrite levels will rise to a dangerous high until there are sufficient numbers of bacteria to convert them into less toxic nitrates. In order to overcome this methods have been devised to encourage the growth of the bacteria. The traditional method is to add a few ‘hardy’ fish that will produce ammonia to encourage bacteria growth while the tank is ‘cycling’. This method is very stressful for the fish, many of which die or are damaged by the process. The toxic ammonia burns the gills and leads to permanent damage. At the end of the ‘cycling’ you are left with fish in poor condition which you may not want in your aquarium.
A better, more humane method to cycle the tank is to use a fishless cycling method. It uses household ammonia as a source, rather than live fish, and a bacteria culture obtained from a healthy tank or purchased from an aquarium supplier.
The Bacteria Starter Culture
You can obtain a starter bacteria culture by adding some gravel, filter medium or rock from a healthy, aged tropical fish tank. If you do not have a source there are commercial products available, for example StressZyme or Hagen’s Cycle. The culture will give a quick start to producing a colony of bacteria but you can also use this method without a starter culture. It will take a bit longer then to cycle your tank.
The Ammonia
Purchase some unscented, additive free 100% ammonia. Some aquarium supply shops are now selling ammonia for this purpose. If you know a chemist or science teacher they may be able to get you some pure ammonia from a laboratory supplier..
The Tank Temperature
The bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) thrive best at higher temperature than is usually used for a tropical tank so during the cycling increase the temperature to between 30 and 35 C (85-95F). When you add the fish you can turn it down again.
Testing Kit
A testing kit to check the ammonia and nitrite levels is essential to test the levels and to indicate when cycling is complete.
The Fishless Cycling Method
Extra aeration is recommended while cycling as bacteria need oxygen to grow. Increase the aeration through the tank and filter if possible. You could add an extra air stone or even use an extra pump if one is available. Add your bacteria culture, then add about a teaspoon of ammonia for a small tank. Increase this for a larger tank. Allow about an hour for the ammonia to circulate then test. The ammonia level should be between 5 mg/L (or 5ppm). Add some more ammonia if the level is too low. Leave the tank alone for a few days then test again.
At this stage the ammonia level should begin to drop and the nitrite level to rise. This means that the bacteria are doing their job of processing the ammonia. Add some more ammonia when it drops to zero to give the bacteria more to work on. The nitrite level should rise until it reaches a maximum then begin to drop as the nitrites are converted into relatively harmless nitrates. Three or four days after the maximum nitrite levels are seen the nitrite level should drop to zero. The cycling is now complete.
Change about 50-70% of the water, carefully so as not to disturb the filter or the gravel bed where the bacteria are colonised. Reset the temperature to 25°C, or the recommended temperature for your intended fish and allow the temperature to stabilise for a few hours. Retest for ammonia and nitrites and if the levels are zero you can now begin to add some fish.
It is possible after cycling the tank to add all the fish in one go but this will result in a spike in the ammonia and nitrite levels which is stressful for the fish and could cause them to become diseased. adding the fish slowly will allow the bacteria to grow to cope with the added levels of ammonia excreted by the fish. Even for a fully cycled tank it is advisable to gradually add the fish. aim to take about a month to fully stock the tank.
A fishless cycling method is more efficient and produces a fully cycled tank in a much shorter time than the traditional method of using hardy fish. It is also more humane and you will not be left with unwanted, often damaged fish, at the end.
DARYL
Once you have set up your tropical aquarium the next step is to ‘cycle’ it. This process produces beneficial bacteria that will process the waste ammonia from your fish and convert it into nitrites and then into relatively harmless nitrates. After adding fish to an uncycled tank the toxic ammonia and nitrite levels will rise to a dangerous high until there are sufficient numbers of bacteria to convert them into less toxic nitrates. In order to overcome this methods have been devised to encourage the growth of the bacteria. The traditional method is to add a few ‘hardy’ fish that will produce ammonia to encourage bacteria growth while the tank is ‘cycling’. This method is very stressful for the fish, many of which die or are damaged by the process. The toxic ammonia burns the gills and leads to permanent damage. At the end of the ‘cycling’ you are left with fish in poor condition which you may not want in your aquarium.
A better, more humane method to cycle the tank is to use a fishless cycling method. It uses household ammonia as a source, rather than live fish, and a bacteria culture obtained from a healthy tank or purchased from an aquarium supplier.
The Bacteria Starter Culture
You can obtain a starter bacteria culture by adding some gravel, filter medium or rock from a healthy, aged tropical fish tank. If you do not have a source there are commercial products available, for example StressZyme or Hagen’s Cycle. The culture will give a quick start to producing a colony of bacteria but you can also use this method without a starter culture. It will take a bit longer then to cycle your tank.
The Ammonia
Purchase some unscented, additive free 100% ammonia. Some aquarium supply shops are now selling ammonia for this purpose. If you know a chemist or science teacher they may be able to get you some pure ammonia from a laboratory supplier..
The Tank Temperature
The bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) thrive best at higher temperature than is usually used for a tropical tank so during the cycling increase the temperature to between 30 and 35 C (85-95F). When you add the fish you can turn it down again.
Testing Kit
A testing kit to check the ammonia and nitrite levels is essential to test the levels and to indicate when cycling is complete.
The Fishless Cycling Method
Extra aeration is recommended while cycling as bacteria need oxygen to grow. Increase the aeration through the tank and filter if possible. You could add an extra air stone or even use an extra pump if one is available. Add your bacteria culture, then add about a teaspoon of ammonia for a small tank. Increase this for a larger tank. Allow about an hour for the ammonia to circulate then test. The ammonia level should be between 5 mg/L (or 5ppm). Add some more ammonia if the level is too low. Leave the tank alone for a few days then test again.
At this stage the ammonia level should begin to drop and the nitrite level to rise. This means that the bacteria are doing their job of processing the ammonia. Add some more ammonia when it drops to zero to give the bacteria more to work on. The nitrite level should rise until it reaches a maximum then begin to drop as the nitrites are converted into relatively harmless nitrates. Three or four days after the maximum nitrite levels are seen the nitrite level should drop to zero. The cycling is now complete.
Change about 50-70% of the water, carefully so as not to disturb the filter or the gravel bed where the bacteria are colonised. Reset the temperature to 25°C, or the recommended temperature for your intended fish and allow the temperature to stabilise for a few hours. Retest for ammonia and nitrites and if the levels are zero you can now begin to add some fish.
It is possible after cycling the tank to add all the fish in one go but this will result in a spike in the ammonia and nitrite levels which is stressful for the fish and could cause them to become diseased. adding the fish slowly will allow the bacteria to grow to cope with the added levels of ammonia excreted by the fish. Even for a fully cycled tank it is advisable to gradually add the fish. aim to take about a month to fully stock the tank.
A fishless cycling method is more efficient and produces a fully cycled tank in a much shorter time than the traditional method of using hardy fish. It is also more humane and you will not be left with unwanted, often damaged fish, at the end.
DARYL
Sep
28
how to start a succsessful tropical fish store?
Filed Under Fish | 4 Comments
anthony K asked:
so i want to start a tropical fish store with saltwater fish freshwater fish and reptiles i’m pretty knowledgeable about them but i don’t know how to start a buisness so what would be the best way to go about that oh i primarly want to specialize in saltwater fish and reptiles any answers would be greatly appreciated
GEOFFREY
so i want to start a tropical fish store with saltwater fish freshwater fish and reptiles i’m pretty knowledgeable about them but i don’t know how to start a buisness so what would be the best way to go about that oh i primarly want to specialize in saltwater fish and reptiles any answers would be greatly appreciated
GEOFFREY
Sep
28
Tropical Fish Fun – the New Tank…
Filed Under Pets | Leave a Comment
Pete Wright asked:
My wife and I had kept tropical fish before, but we wanted to do something different. So we decided to reconstruct the fireplace – a typical modern affair with no real quality or style – into a 7 foot long 4 foot deep paradise for fish…and eventually into an African Cichlid sanctuary…
Having got some real clever mathematician to work out that the weight of the water and tank was indeed supportable in our house (! – you’ll never believe how many people don’t check that out, especially those in apartments), we set about planning the aquarium with delight…
The tank was to stand on ornamental stone blocks which a local builder fixed in place. We needed to talk to a specialist tank supplier as the tank we were building was just a little out of the ordinary – and finally several weeks later the tank arrived.
The first trip to the store
My excitement was extreme as we made our way to the local store to get the bits and pieces we would need to start off:
• the gravel
• the filter and aerator
• the lighting
• the heater
• the cleaner (gravel vac).
When I got home I scrubbed the tank, and checked to make sure there were no leaks, then started to lay the gravel (having first washed the gravel through to make sure the dust was removed). At this time there was no need to be particular as water disturbs the gravel when it is first added. I then added about a third of a tank of water and started to mould the gravel to the way I wanted it. At this point I added some water purifiers and de-chlorinator to the tank.
Ok so then I put in the filter and aerator in, and also added the heater. These all remained switched off until I was finished in the tank. The rest of the water was then added – and I used a plastic tray floating on the surface to make sure there was not too much water movement which meant my sculpted gravel remained the way I wanted it.
Next all the equipment was turned on and left for two days.
The it was back down to the store for two more things:
• lots of plants and:
• CO2 diffuser to help with plant growth
The next day the plants were now neatly arranged and growing in my warm tank, so off down the shop again to get my first fish.
The first fish.
I love platies, the variety of colors is fantastic – but any live bearers are a good place to start. Mollies, swordtails, platies or guppys are ideal to get your water up to scratch. This is generally called cycling and is really the growth of good bacteria in your tank – which in turn break down the waste. So only add a few fish at first or the waste will kill the fish before the bacteria gets to work.
Five platies later and they are floating in their plastic bags on the surface of the tank. This was just to get the water temperatures equalised, and then over a period of a couple of minutes I let some of the tank water in the bag a couple of times. Finally out the five popped and made their way in the new tank.
Technically the fish waste is ammonia and needs to be broken down by bacteria into nitrite, and then later on into nitrate which is what helps the plants grow. This cycle needs to establish in your tank if you are to keep healthy and happy fish and generally this takes about 8 weeks to settle down. Even then my advice would be to add fish slowly til the are all established.
Eventually and with patience.
My wife and I eventually decided that tanganyika cichlids and malawi cichlids were our real hobby (with some dwarf Kribs thrown in) and we managed to breed a few different types including labidochromis caeruleus or more commonly Canary cichlids, and also neolamprologus leleupi or the tanganyika yellow. At one point our tank was a huge splash of yellow delight.
In the evenings now we just switch the television off, cuddle up and watch the fish tank – and soothe our worries away….
TOBY
My wife and I had kept tropical fish before, but we wanted to do something different. So we decided to reconstruct the fireplace – a typical modern affair with no real quality or style – into a 7 foot long 4 foot deep paradise for fish…and eventually into an African Cichlid sanctuary…
Having got some real clever mathematician to work out that the weight of the water and tank was indeed supportable in our house (! – you’ll never believe how many people don’t check that out, especially those in apartments), we set about planning the aquarium with delight…
The tank was to stand on ornamental stone blocks which a local builder fixed in place. We needed to talk to a specialist tank supplier as the tank we were building was just a little out of the ordinary – and finally several weeks later the tank arrived.
The first trip to the store
My excitement was extreme as we made our way to the local store to get the bits and pieces we would need to start off:
• the gravel
• the filter and aerator
• the lighting
• the heater
• the cleaner (gravel vac).
When I got home I scrubbed the tank, and checked to make sure there were no leaks, then started to lay the gravel (having first washed the gravel through to make sure the dust was removed). At this time there was no need to be particular as water disturbs the gravel when it is first added. I then added about a third of a tank of water and started to mould the gravel to the way I wanted it. At this point I added some water purifiers and de-chlorinator to the tank.
Ok so then I put in the filter and aerator in, and also added the heater. These all remained switched off until I was finished in the tank. The rest of the water was then added – and I used a plastic tray floating on the surface to make sure there was not too much water movement which meant my sculpted gravel remained the way I wanted it.
Next all the equipment was turned on and left for two days.
The it was back down to the store for two more things:
• lots of plants and:
• CO2 diffuser to help with plant growth
The next day the plants were now neatly arranged and growing in my warm tank, so off down the shop again to get my first fish.
The first fish.
I love platies, the variety of colors is fantastic – but any live bearers are a good place to start. Mollies, swordtails, platies or guppys are ideal to get your water up to scratch. This is generally called cycling and is really the growth of good bacteria in your tank – which in turn break down the waste. So only add a few fish at first or the waste will kill the fish before the bacteria gets to work.
Five platies later and they are floating in their plastic bags on the surface of the tank. This was just to get the water temperatures equalised, and then over a period of a couple of minutes I let some of the tank water in the bag a couple of times. Finally out the five popped and made their way in the new tank.
Technically the fish waste is ammonia and needs to be broken down by bacteria into nitrite, and then later on into nitrate which is what helps the plants grow. This cycle needs to establish in your tank if you are to keep healthy and happy fish and generally this takes about 8 weeks to settle down. Even then my advice would be to add fish slowly til the are all established.
Eventually and with patience.
My wife and I eventually decided that tanganyika cichlids and malawi cichlids were our real hobby (with some dwarf Kribs thrown in) and we managed to breed a few different types including labidochromis caeruleus or more commonly Canary cichlids, and also neolamprologus leleupi or the tanganyika yellow. At one point our tank was a huge splash of yellow delight.
In the evenings now we just switch the television off, cuddle up and watch the fish tank – and soothe our worries away….
TOBY
Sep
27
Lee Dobbins asked:
Mollies are part of the livebearers collection of fish, including Guppies, Platies and Swordtails. They are very easy to breed and it is fairly easy to distinguish the males from the females.
Most of the colors of Mollies are a result of specialized breeding practices from the people who raise them.
It is recommended that Mollies be placed in aquariums containing at least 15 gallons of water, a maximum of ¼ inch of gravel, and a heater that keeps the temperature of the water between 78 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. As with Guppies and other livebearers, you should put 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per 5 gallons of water to help them survive better in fresh water environments. Unique to the Mollies species of fish, they can actually live quite well in complete salt water aquariums as well. Since Mollies have this flexibility, they are a versatile fish that could be compatible in many different aquarium set ups.
Once considered a difficult fish to care for, the Mollies are now being seen as indicator fish as they will be the first fish to provide signs that the aquarium is unbalanced or the water is contaminated. Mollies kept in freshwater tanks require frequent water changes to remain healthy, while Mollies in reef aquariums rarely need a water change.
The best diet for Mollies includes feeding them floating flake food and freeze dried bloodworms on a daily basis, with a few Black Worms fed every other day.
Keep more female Mollies than male Mollies for the best results. The list of compatible fish is fairly long and Mollies can share the tank with several varieties of fish. The best tank mates include Platies and Swordtails, Angel Fish, a single Plecostomus, Corydoras Catfish, or larger Tetras including Red Serpaes, Silver Tips and Black Skirts.
As with any fish, you will need to have adequate room in the tank as well as a good filtration system. Proper lighting is also important for the health of your fish. When introducing Mollies to your tank, be sure you keep them in the bag that you received them and and float that in the fish tank for about 20 minutes to let the water temperature slowly match that of the tank. Then open the bag and mix a small amount of tank water in - let that sit for about 5 minutes. Repeat this last step a few times so that your fish can become acclimate to the water in it’s new home before you release them into the tank.
Mollies tend to live an average of 4 or 5 years and reach a size of 5″ in length.
CLIFFORD
Mollies are part of the livebearers collection of fish, including Guppies, Platies and Swordtails. They are very easy to breed and it is fairly easy to distinguish the males from the females.
Most of the colors of Mollies are a result of specialized breeding practices from the people who raise them.
It is recommended that Mollies be placed in aquariums containing at least 15 gallons of water, a maximum of ¼ inch of gravel, and a heater that keeps the temperature of the water between 78 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. As with Guppies and other livebearers, you should put 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per 5 gallons of water to help them survive better in fresh water environments. Unique to the Mollies species of fish, they can actually live quite well in complete salt water aquariums as well. Since Mollies have this flexibility, they are a versatile fish that could be compatible in many different aquarium set ups.
Once considered a difficult fish to care for, the Mollies are now being seen as indicator fish as they will be the first fish to provide signs that the aquarium is unbalanced or the water is contaminated. Mollies kept in freshwater tanks require frequent water changes to remain healthy, while Mollies in reef aquariums rarely need a water change.
The best diet for Mollies includes feeding them floating flake food and freeze dried bloodworms on a daily basis, with a few Black Worms fed every other day.
Keep more female Mollies than male Mollies for the best results. The list of compatible fish is fairly long and Mollies can share the tank with several varieties of fish. The best tank mates include Platies and Swordtails, Angel Fish, a single Plecostomus, Corydoras Catfish, or larger Tetras including Red Serpaes, Silver Tips and Black Skirts.
As with any fish, you will need to have adequate room in the tank as well as a good filtration system. Proper lighting is also important for the health of your fish. When introducing Mollies to your tank, be sure you keep them in the bag that you received them and and float that in the fish tank for about 20 minutes to let the water temperature slowly match that of the tank. Then open the bag and mix a small amount of tank water in - let that sit for about 5 minutes. Repeat this last step a few times so that your fish can become acclimate to the water in it’s new home before you release them into the tank.
Mollies tend to live an average of 4 or 5 years and reach a size of 5″ in length.
CLIFFORD
Sep
27
Getting Your Tropical Fish Home
Filed Under Pets | Leave a Comment
Rob Mellor asked:
So now you’ve purchased some tropical fish. You’ve made sure you have selected healthy fish and you have done your homework to make sure the fish that you have will go together.
Your fish should have been packed in a plastic bag with oxygen and then put into a dark bag or polystyrene box to keep the heat in.
You should try and buy fish no longer than a couple of hours away. Fish can last over 24 hours if packed right but the longer you keep them in transit the more stress they go through. You should try and keep stress to a minimum to make sure the fish remain healthy.
Once you get them home you should float the bags in the water and then open the bags up. This will help equalize the temperature between the water in the tank and the water in the bag. You should also keep adding little bits of tank water to the bag. Add just a little and then leave for five minutes before adding more. This will help acclimatize the fish to the water chemistry of the tank and even the ph and water hardness out.
After doing this for about 20 to 30 minutes you should then gently release the fish to the tank and let them swim out of the bag on there own. Then you should leave them with the aquarium light on overnight. This will reduce stress because the fish can see where they are swimming and there surroundings and they will also see that there are no predators around.
You should not feed them for around 24 hours to let them settle in and then over the next few days only feed sparingly. It will take them a couple of days to get used to the tank and feeding.
It is a good technique to add the smallest and weakest fish to the tank first. This will prevent bullying in the aquarium between the fish. Please follow these keeps to keep the stress of your new tropical fish to a minimum. This will help the fish settle in faster and in the end cause you less stress.
GARY
So now you’ve purchased some tropical fish. You’ve made sure you have selected healthy fish and you have done your homework to make sure the fish that you have will go together.
Your fish should have been packed in a plastic bag with oxygen and then put into a dark bag or polystyrene box to keep the heat in.
You should try and buy fish no longer than a couple of hours away. Fish can last over 24 hours if packed right but the longer you keep them in transit the more stress they go through. You should try and keep stress to a minimum to make sure the fish remain healthy.
Once you get them home you should float the bags in the water and then open the bags up. This will help equalize the temperature between the water in the tank and the water in the bag. You should also keep adding little bits of tank water to the bag. Add just a little and then leave for five minutes before adding more. This will help acclimatize the fish to the water chemistry of the tank and even the ph and water hardness out.
After doing this for about 20 to 30 minutes you should then gently release the fish to the tank and let them swim out of the bag on there own. Then you should leave them with the aquarium light on overnight. This will reduce stress because the fish can see where they are swimming and there surroundings and they will also see that there are no predators around.
You should not feed them for around 24 hours to let them settle in and then over the next few days only feed sparingly. It will take them a couple of days to get used to the tank and feeding.
It is a good technique to add the smallest and weakest fish to the tank first. This will prevent bullying in the aquarium between the fish. Please follow these keeps to keep the stress of your new tropical fish to a minimum. This will help the fish settle in faster and in the end cause you less stress.
GARY
Sep
21
Johnny Blade asked:
One of the best ways to keep your fish healthy is to make sure that they eat regularly and well. But feeding them badly can make them very ill. In fact your fish is more likely to die from bad feeding than any other cause. It is really a question of balance; if you feed the fish too little then they will not grow properly and will be underweight, but if you feed them too much then they will be overweight. Very similar to people really, you just need to make sure that you feed them well and that you give them the right amount. Although it is a balancing act, it is really not that hard and if you are sensible then it should be fine.
It is much better to feed your fish a bit less and a bit more often. If you feed them too much then it is quite likely that the extra food will not be eaten. But this is not necessarily a good thing, as the extra food will usually end up on the floor of the tank. Then it will start to rot and so will have a detrimental effect on the quality of the water. Even worse, the food, as it rots, can create ammonia. This can be very bad for the fish, as they do not only live in the water, they also have to breathe it as well.
If you feed your fish a little less but feed them more often then it means that they can eat the food and not leave any that could be wasted and sink to the floor of the tank. It is also a much better way for your fish to eat. Try not too feed your fish food that is likely to rot down so often such as meat or other fish.
Another way to reduce the amount of waste that is in the tank is to buy a good quality filter. Then even if there is waste on the base of the tank, it is more likely that the filter will clean it up. It is worth buying one that is of a good quality rather than just a cheap one that will not clean so well.
Finding the right balance for feeding your fish is not hard, it just takes a little time to see how much they eat and how much is wasted so that you will be able to give them the right amount.
CESAR
One of the best ways to keep your fish healthy is to make sure that they eat regularly and well. But feeding them badly can make them very ill. In fact your fish is more likely to die from bad feeding than any other cause. It is really a question of balance; if you feed the fish too little then they will not grow properly and will be underweight, but if you feed them too much then they will be overweight. Very similar to people really, you just need to make sure that you feed them well and that you give them the right amount. Although it is a balancing act, it is really not that hard and if you are sensible then it should be fine.
It is much better to feed your fish a bit less and a bit more often. If you feed them too much then it is quite likely that the extra food will not be eaten. But this is not necessarily a good thing, as the extra food will usually end up on the floor of the tank. Then it will start to rot and so will have a detrimental effect on the quality of the water. Even worse, the food, as it rots, can create ammonia. This can be very bad for the fish, as they do not only live in the water, they also have to breathe it as well.
If you feed your fish a little less but feed them more often then it means that they can eat the food and not leave any that could be wasted and sink to the floor of the tank. It is also a much better way for your fish to eat. Try not too feed your fish food that is likely to rot down so often such as meat or other fish.
Another way to reduce the amount of waste that is in the tank is to buy a good quality filter. Then even if there is waste on the base of the tank, it is more likely that the filter will clean it up. It is worth buying one that is of a good quality rather than just a cheap one that will not clean so well.
Finding the right balance for feeding your fish is not hard, it just takes a little time to see how much they eat and how much is wasted so that you will be able to give them the right amount.
CESAR
Sep
20
Tropical fish?
Filed Under Fish | 4 Comments
Phillip K asked:
I went to the garden centre last week and a lad who works in the fish part put in some of the tropical tanks some chunks of cucumber and he said they like a bit of cucumber. And after three days you take out the leftovers. has anyone else heard that? because I never knew they liked cucumber.
GERRY
I went to the garden centre last week and a lad who works in the fish part put in some of the tropical tanks some chunks of cucumber and he said they like a bit of cucumber. And after three days you take out the leftovers. has anyone else heard that? because I never knew they liked cucumber.
GERRY